CETME MANUAL PDF

The requirements for the original design requested the rifle weigh no more than 4. This required a very ambitious development of rifle technology to work but the CETME engineers, based on earlier German experiments, believed this was possible by using an unconventional projectile. It would be lightweight and elongated to make it aerodynamic, yet fired at normal rifle velocities. The rounds weighed 6. To allow such a long projectile to be stable in flight, a method was required to achieve proper mass distribution.

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You are on page 1of 8 Search inside document presents Firearms Technical Trivia, November The following is my experience as the proud owner of one of the new post-ban CETME style rifles that are currently on the market.

They have a reputation as well designed, well made and reliable firearms. Besides, wood adds a certain nostalgia and individuality to the rifle. I did not purchase from the first distributor that I noticed carrying them. I shopped around and decided to purchase from AIM Surplus. However, hindsight being , I failed to ask about interchangeability and commonality with with HK 91 style rifles.

The receiver was nicely finished in what appeared to be a black epoxy coating. This differed from the original parkerizing finish of the butt stock metal and forearm metal.

Just to note, the magazines have the same parkerized finish. In any event, I did not find the juxtaposition of the two finishes displeasing. The rear sight configuration was also somewhat surprising. In the advertisement it looked very much like the HK drum sight. The next step was to detail strip the rifle for cleaning and inspection. This is a must for every new gun, especially one made from a military parts set on a new semiauto receiver.

This sort of excess lubrication can contribute to poor reliability and an inability to properly feed, extract or eject. Since there were no instruction or maintenance information packed with the gun, disassembly and detail stripping were conducted on the basis of common sense and HK 91 reference manuals. As a result, I did not drive them fully from their seating in the gun.

HK pins are solid and I can be removed with finger pressure alone. Once the buttstock pins are removed, the buttstock can be moved to the rear, off the receiver. I found that I needed to vigorously hit the butt with the palm of my hand to move the stock off the receiver.

I did not dismantle the buttstock with its built in buffer assembly, and thus cannot comment on whether these components are is similar to those on an HK The pins While we are on the subject of interchangeability, there are several parts that were expected to interchange, but did not as they were a bit different in design and execution.

As complete assemblies, the stock and trigger group the trigger housing actually appear interchangeable with HK components. But individual parts and sub- assemblies will probably not interchange. As an example, the trigger pack assembly appears to be of the same dimensions but the internal parts look are quite different; the safety, for instance, moves upward to the fire position.

On the HK it comes down to the fire position. I believe the HK version to be much more intuitive. The hammer, trigger and sear are all of a different geometry than those of the German gun. According to Mr. Consequently he will either decline to work with them or not guarantee any work done on them.

Unfortunately this is not an option, as the rifle would then be in violation of the Section r. We can only hope that a domestic source of quality fire control parts He suggested that I replace the components for the CETME arises shortly. It rotates on a vertical plane, each "paddle" having an aperture graduated for a different range. The nature of the four apertures is similar to the HK - the meter battlesight is an open V notch and the balance are circular apertures.

My rifle has the distinction of a pinched sight assembly so that the wheel does not want to go into the yard setting with finger pressure only.

To remedy this, I needed to separate or "spread" the assembly enough to loosen this up, but not so loose that the small detent ball on the paddle no longer engages the appropriate whole to hold position. The front sight is entirely dissimilar to the HK. It is an elevation adjustable post and requires a special spanner tool which will pass down through a hole in the top of the sight assembly.

A small set screw must be loosened first before screwing the front sight post up or down. These caps are not interchangeable. This is also where the HK rifle mounts the retaining bracket that the forearm retaining pin fits through.

The cocking handle tube is full diameter all the way to the sight. This allows for the cleaning kit to fit within this space but means that the CETME forearm attaches in a different manner. The forearm itself has a screw that passes through from right to left and pinches or draws in on a spring clip which mates to a groove provided for it on the barrel just behind the front sight assembly.

As per US law, the rifle comes with a muzzle brake and not a flash hider. The brake is permanently secured with high temperature solder. The brake is quite effective, and along with the rubber butt plate, helps to ensure that recoil is mild and firing not unpleasant. It contains four groups of holes which bored perpendicular to the axis of the bore. Surprisingly, the flash signature at dusk is not bad. As noted, there is no flash suppressor but there is no fireball or excessive flash when firing.

The muzzle signature was minimal and did not exceed an inch to an inch and a half radius from the bore. They are of similar construction to the HK but contain a few significant differences. The CETME magazines have a slight curvature to the magazine bodies and are constructed of steel with a parkerized finish that matches that of the steel portions of the buttstock group.

I was able to bend and slide the bottom off and replace it without any discernible permanent warping of the base plate. After driving out the captive pins from the buttstock and removing the buttstock as described above, retract the cocking handle and tilt the gun muzzle upward. This will allow the bolt carrier group to slide out the open back of the receiver. The trigger housing can now be removed from the receiver by pulling down and back on the pistol grip. Rotate the safety lever upward until the arm of the selector is straight up.

Pull the selector switch out of the trigger housing. The trigger "pack" which is the unitized fire control parts contained within the trigger housing may now be removed. A spray cleaner and degreaser like Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber can be used to clean the trigger pack if you are not the adventurous type. Be aware, further disassembly of the trigger group will require driving out several retaining pins and the careful notation of assembly order.

This can be tricky so if you do not have a photographic memory it is probably best left to Gun Scrubber. The forearm is removed by simply unscrewing the screw located opposite the front sling eyelet and pulling down on the forward portion of the forearm.

My rifle required a little bit of prying with a non- marring tool since the retaining "clip" seemed to still have a pretty good hold on the barrel. The cleaning module or capsule may be removed by using punches or bullet tips to simultaneously press in on opposing spring loaded detents which are accessed on the front sight assemble around the upper portion. The bolt head and subsequent parts associated with this assembly disassemble exactly like an HK firearm.

It then can be pulled forward out of the bolt carrier. The firing pin and firing pin spring will be free to be removed from the bolt carrier after the bolt head is removed. The difficult part is getting it back in place and rotating it back under the pressure of the bolt head locking lever. With hands that are covered solvents and lubricants at this point is reassembly, an old T-shirt comes in handy to give some gripping leverage. The bolt carrier itself requires no more disassembly. This is another area which can be difficult.

The bolt Assembly is in reverse order and I found only one surprise except for one. The fit of the trigger housing and the buttstock parts onto the American made receiver are very snug. It took a rubber mallet to bring these parts to the point where I could drive the stock retaining pins back into their respective holes.

But each assembly and disassembly seems to get easier. For a fraction of what an HK rifle would cost now, I am more than happy with this purchase. The rifle is capable of some outstanding accuracy, as can be seen from the yard group barely the size of a quarter, except for the first round flyer.

If there is ever an industrious American out there willing to address the trigger quality shortcoming, I am sure this rifle could compete very favorably with the more expensive HK Related Interests.

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The original G3 rifles were all select-fire, meaning optional full-auto mode. Indeed, the current Century Arms CETME has a position on the safety for full-auto mode that has a stamped-steel stop to prevent travel to that position. With a good bipod, and a heavier barrel, they might have been decent select-fire weapons for expedient duty as a light machine gun, but the overall design is all wrong for that role. They are surprisingly light weapons, and were built as an infantry battle rifle. Without the ability to easily change the barrel, they were almost never used as an automatic rifle in combat.

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